Investigating the regional production situation and Application of Timurid period textiles based on historical texts

Document Type : Original Article

Author

Senior Professor of Arak University, Carpet Department, Arak, Iran.

Abstract
Textiles are part of the cultural heritage of various cultures. The development of textile knowledge is affected by the social and cultural conventions of each period. As one of the essentials of life with beauty in design and pattern, these products are also economically valuable for governments. The problem is that despite the development of various artistic indicators in the Timurid period, we are faced with a lack of objective evidence of the textiles of this period and And information about the production areas and application of the type of textiles is not available, hence It seems that weaving and textile production during the Timurid period did not develop sufficiently. Since the degradable nature of the fibers causes the rapid destruction of textiles, the unavailability of rich resources does not determine the historical identity of these products. On the other hand, the production of high-quality textiles during the Safavid period could not have suddenly grown. This research aims to examine the status of textiles from the Timurid period by rereading some of the texts from this period. The collection of library information and the research method are descriptive and with a historical approach. Based on the opinions of the historians and travel writers studied, the results show that carpet and cloth weaving was common during the Timurid period, and silk and wool fibers were used more in textile production than linen. The textiles produced are used for trade, royal necessities, taxes, ransoms, gifts, mourning and mourning, treasury property, clothing, and decorations. The frequency of use of silk woven fabrics is greater than that of wool woven fabrics. The geographical scope of this period in terms of design, supply of raw materials, production, and export during the Timurid period includes 17 regions, a number of which are still active in the production of handlooms to this day. Emphasizing the written sources of the function of woven fabrics of the Timurid period, and the high-quality silk material in proportion to their production, it gives a special formulation to the textiles of this historical period, which is a response to the continuity of weaving traditions, exports, and trade during this period

Keywords


Aka, Ismail, (1971), Timurlular, translated by Akbar Sabouri, Tehran, Institute of Humanities and Cultural Studies.
Al-ḵazraǰī, al-Šayḵ ʿAlī b. al-Ḥossaīn, (1911), al-ʿUqūd ul-Luʾlūʾīyyah fī Tārīḵ al-Dawlah al-Rasūlīyyah, edited by Sheikh Mohammad Basiuni Asal, Part 2, Cairo: Al-Hīlāl Press.
Amid, Hassan, (1381), Farhang-e Fārsī-ye ʿAmīd, Tehran: Amīr Kabīr.
Asadi Farsani, Majid, (1978), "A Historical investigation of the design and color of the Timurid garments based on masterpieces by Kamal al-Din Behzad", Scientific Journal of Reaserch of Art, 12(24), 15-28.
Barbaro, Giosofat and Others, (1970), Travelogues of Venetians in Iran, translated by Manouchehr Amiri, Tehran: ḵārazmī.
Bartold, Vasilii Vladimirovich, (1957), Ulugh Beg and His Time, translated by Hossein Ahmadipour, Tabriz: Chehr Bookstore.
Bartold, Vasilii Vladimirovich, (1989), the Historical Geography of Iran, translated by Hamzeh Sardadour, Tehran.
Bastani Parisi, Mohammad Ebrahim, (1973), Āždehā-ye Hāft Sar. Tehran, Ṣafī-ʿAlišāhPress
Brion, Marcel, (1993), I am Timur Jahangir, translated by Zabih Allah Mansuri, Tehran: Mostūfī Library.
Davānī, ǰalāl al-Dīn, (2014), Aḵlāq-e ǰalālī, Second Edition, Edited by Abdullah Masoudi Arani, Tehran: ‘Eṭṭelāʿāt.
Davood, Shadloo, Ali Asghar, Shirazi, (2009), MINIATURISTS AND CARPET DESIGNERS IN ISKANDAR SULTAN.S COURT, Negareh, Volume: 4, Issue: 13, pp. 41- 54
Delavar, Ali, (2011), Theoretical and Practical Foundations of Research in the Humanities and Social Sciences, Tehran: Rošd.
Dozy, Reinhart Pieter Anne, (2009), Dictionnaire detaille des noms des vetements chez les Arabes, Translated by Hosseinali Heravi, Tehran: ‘Elmī Farhangī.
Farahnaki Shahram, Noruozi Jamshid, Khosrobeigi, Houshang, (2018), Investigation the Role and Position of Craftsmen of Khorasan and Transoxiana during the Timurid Period, Social History Research, Volume 8, Number 1, pp. 157-179.
Ghasemi, Maryam, Hosseinnejad, Zahra, (2023), “Structural Analysis of Decorative Arrangements Used in Paintings of the Timurid Period with an Approach to the Clothing of the Baysanqori Shahnameh”, Second National Conference on the Language of Decoration in Fashion and Clothing Design, Tehran: Farhangestan Honar.
Gīlānī, Molā Šeīḵ ʿAlī, (1973), Tārīḵ-e Māzandarān, edited by Manouchehr Sotoudeh, Tehran, Iranian Culture Foundation.
Gonzalez de ClaviJo, Ruy, (1968), Hiustoria de gran tamorian = narrative of the embassy of Guy Gonzalez de Clavijo to the court of Timour, Translated by Masoud Rajabnia, Tehran: Book Translation and Publishing Company.
Ḥāfīẓ Abrū, Šahāb al-Dīn Abū l-Fatḥ ʿAbdollāh ḵāvāfī, (2001), Zobdat ul-Tawārīḵ (Vols. 2, 3, and 4). Edited by Seyyed Kamal Haj Seyyed Javadi, Tehran: Printing and Publishing Organization of the Ministry of Culture and Islamic Guidance.
Hajianpour, Hamid, Jokar, Mojtaba, (2018), The Study of Yazd's Urban Economy During the Timurid Period (1396-1452), Historical Sciences Research, No. 17, pp. 1-17
Hakim, Mohammad Taqi Khan, (1987), Ganǰ Dāneš: Historical Geography of Iranian Cities, published by Mohammad Ali Soti and Jamshid Kianfar, Tehran: Zarrīn.
Hassan, Mohammad Zaki, (1984), History of Iranian Industries After Islam, translated by Mohammad Ali Khalili, Tehran: Eqbāl.
Hassouri, Ali, (1997), Carpets on Miniatures. Translated by Farhad Giti. Tehran: Farhangān.
Heravī, Seyf b. Moḥammad b. Yaʿqūb, (2004), Tārīḵ-nāmeh-ye Herāt. Edited by Gholamreza Tabatabaei Majd. Tehran: Asāṭīr.
Hinz, Walther, (1989), Islamische Masse und Gewichte; Umgerechnet ins metrische System, translated by Gholamreza Varahram. Tehran: Institute of Cultural Studies and Research.
Ībn ‘Arab Šāh, Aḥmad b. Maḥmūd, (1977). Zendegānī-ye Šegeft-āvar-e Teymur, translated by Mohammad Ali Nejati, Tehran: Book Translation and Publishing Company.
ḵāndmīr, Ḡīyāṯ ul-Dīn b. Hammām, (1954), Ḥabīb al-Sīyar fī Aḵbār Afrād-i Bašar, under the supervision of Mohammad Dabir Siyaghi, Vol. 3-6, Second Edition, Tehran: ḵayyām.
ḵāndmīr, Ḡīyāṯ ul-Dīn b. Hammām, (1981), Tārīḵ Ḥabīb al-Sīyar, with an introduction by Jalal al-Din Homa’i, Volume 4, Tehran: ḵayyām.
Kātīb Yazdī, Aḥmad b. Ḥossaīn b. ʿAlī, (2007), Tārīḵ-e Jadīd-e Yazd, Third Edition, Edited by Iraj Afshar, Tehran: Amīr Kabīr.
Kauz, Ralph, (2004), Hormuz in Yuan and Ming sources, translated by Mehrdad Vahdati, Tehran: University Press Center.
La’l Shateri, Mostafa, Rajabi, Mohammad Ali, (2016), Cloth-Weaving in Timurid Period (Case Study of the Cloth used in Decoration of the Tents of the Ṭoy Ceremonies), History and Culture, Year 48, No. 1 (serial number 96), pp. 73-96.
Marʿašī, Sayyed Ẓahīr ul-Dīn, (1967), Tārīḵ-e Gīlān va Deīlamestān, edited and annotated by Manouchehr Sotoudeh. Tehran: Iranian Culture Foundation.
Mashkouti, Nosrat-Allah, (1963), From Seljuk to Safavid, Tehran: Printing House of the Iranian Commercial Bank.
Molavi, Abdolhamid, (n.d.), Antiquities of Khorasan, Tehran: National Athar Association.
Naseri Mohsen, Sadeghi, Zeynab, (1988), " Timurid Tents and Enclosures based on the Juxtaposition of Zafar-nameh of Yazdi and Narrative of the Embassy of Ruy Gonzales de Clavijo", Islamic Art, No. 29, pp. 1-27
Nezāmī, Nezām-ul-Dīn ʿAbd-ul-Vāsī, (1978), Manšaʾ ul-Anšāʾ. (Vol. 1), with the efforts of Roknedin Homayunfarokh. Tehran: National University.
Niazi, Mohsen, Estarki, Fahimeh, (2012), " Wool Weaving in KÄshÄn: An Investigation of Its Historical Process, Activities, Stages and Different Kinds of Wool Weaving", Studies on Kashan, Volume 5, Number 2 (9th issue), pp. 103-80.
Pope, Arthur Upham, (2008), A survey of Persian art, from prehistoric times to the present A survey of Persian art, from prehistoric times to the present, translated by Cyrus Parham, Vol. 5, Tehran: ‘Elmī Farhangī.
Qazvīnī, Zakarīyā b. Moḥammad b. Maḥmūd (1994), Aṯār ul-Bīlād wa Aḵbār ul-ʿĪbād, translated by Jahangir Mirza Qajar, Corrected and Completed by Mir Hashem Mohaddes, Tehran: Amīr Kabīr
Rahmati, Mohsen, (2016), "THE ECONOMIC REFORMS OF SULTAN ABUSA'ID GURKAN IN KHORASAN AND ITS CONSEQUENCES", JOURNAL OF GREATE KHORASAN, Volume 7, Issue 22, pp. 85-96.
Roemer, H.R., et al., (2001), The Timurid and Safavid periods; The Cambridge history of Iran, translated by Yaqub Ajand, Tehran: ǰāmī.
Rouhani, Seyyed Kazem, (Bita). Guilds and Craftsmen in the History of Iran. Tehran: Keīhān Andīšeh
Saʿīfī Boḵārī, (1987). Ṣanāʾī al-Badāyeʿ, with the efforts of Najib Mayel-e-Heravi, Iranian Cultural Consultation Journal, Islamabad, No. 10.
Salehi, Kourosh; Posadadeh, Razieh, (2017), “The study of the growth and development of Mashhad during the Timurid era”, Journal of Greater Khorasan, Volume 8, Number 27, pp. 55-66.
Samarqandī, Dowlatšāh, (2003). Tazkerat ul-Šoʿarā, edited by Edward Brown, Tehran: Asāṭīr.
Samarqandī, Kamāl-ul-Dīn ʿAbd-ul-Razzāq, (1974), Moṭlaʿ ul-Saʿdeīn wa Maǰmaʿ ul-Baḥreīn, edited by Abdul Hossein Nava’i, Ketābḵāneh-ye Tāhūrī, Tehran
Samarqandī, Kamāl-ul-Dīn ʿAbd-ul-Razzāq, (2004), Moṭlaʿ ul-Saʿdeīn wa Maǰmaʿ ul-Baḥreīn, edited by Abdul Hossein Nava’i, Tehran: Humanities Research Institute.
Talebpour, Farideh, (1400), History of Textiles and Cloth in Iran, Tehran: Alzahra University.
Vāʿeẓ Kāšefī, Faḵr al-Dīn ʿAlī b. Ḥosaaīn, (1977), Rašḥāt ʿAyn ul-Ḥayāt. Edited by Ali Asghar Moinian. Tehran: Nūrīyānī Charity Foundation.
Vosoughi, Mohammad Bagher, Soleimani, Mohammad Hussein, (1983), The Textiles of the Mongol era based on the Manuscript of Al-Morshed fī al-hisāb, Historical Sciences Studies, Volume 5, Issue 1, pp. 175-193.
Wilson, J. Christy, (n.d.), History of Iranian Industries, translated by Abdullah Fariyar, Tehran: Farhangsarā.
Wulff, Hans E, (1989), The traditional crafts of persia, translated by Sirous Ebrahimzadeh, Third Edition, Tehran: Scientific and Cultural Publications.
Yazdī, Sharaf al-Dīn ʿAlī, (1957). Ẓafar-nāmeh, edited by Mohammad Abbasi, volumes one and two, Tehran: Amīr Kabīr.
Zamčī Esfazārī, Moīn-al-Dīn Moḥammad, (1959), Rowḍat ul-ǰenān fī Awsāf Madīna Herāt, 2 vols., edited by Seyyed Kazem Imam, Tehran: University of Tehran.
Volume 16, Issue 60 - Serial Number 2
summer 2024
Summer 2024
Pages 1-40

  • Receive Date 23 September 2024
  • Revise Date 11 December 2024
  • Accept Date 25 December 2024
  • Publish Date 22 August 2024